Serving Lakewood & the surrounding metro•Repair, springs, openers & new doors(720) 538-5268
Lakewood Garage Door Pros (720) 538-5268
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Lakewood, CO · Garage Door Service

Garage Door Installation for Lakewood Homes

New garage door installs sized for Lakewood's 1960s-70s homes and cold-climate winters, from a local crew that knows the area's older torsion hardware.

  • Repairs & new doors
  • Springs & openers
  • Serving 6 nearby communities

How We Fix It

When a Lakewood door is done, it's done - no patching a bent panel back into square. We measure the existing opening first, because most of the garages we work on were framed decades before today's standard door sizes became common, and a few runs short or long by an inch or two. We pull the old door and both tracks, set new vertical track plumb against the jamb, and size the torsion spring to the actual door weight rather than guessing off a chart. For homes in the service area with the original 1960s or 70s framing, we check the header and jamb before we hang anything, since a sagging header from fifty-plus years of settling will throw a new door out of alignment within months if nobody catches it. We install insulated steel panels as the default here, given the winters, and set the opener to the new door's travel and force settings rather than leaving factory defaults. One limit worth saying plainly: if the opening is out of square by more than a small amount, that's a carpentry fix before it's a door fix, and we'll tell you that instead of forcing a door to fit.

Why This Fails Locally

The housing stock across this service area runs from 1938 to 2005, with a median build year of 1976, and most of the 36 named areas we cover are solidly 1960s-70s construction. That generation of garage door was built for a milder expectation of winter than what this area's climate band actually delivers - classified here as cold and severe. A single-layer steel door with no insulation doesn't just let heat out; it lets the cold reach the spring and hinge metal directly, and repeated freeze-thaw cycling on hardware that's already fifty years old is what turns a stiff spring into a snapped one. Original torsion springs from that era were also sized to lighter, uninsulated door weight, so when an owner upgrades to a heavier insulated panel without upsizing the spring, the opener strains and the cables wear faster than they should. None of this is a Lakewood-specific defect - it's what happens when 1970s hardware meets a genuinely cold winter decade after decade. It's why install calls here skew toward full door and spring replacement rather than single-part fixes.

What It Costs

We don't have a flat number to quote here, because installation cost depends on door size, insulation level, and whether the opener and track hardware need replacing alongside the door - and in a service area with housing built between 1938 and 2005, those variables swing more than they would in a newer subdivision. What we can say: with a median household income of $116,667 across the area, most owners we talk to land on a mid-tier insulated steel door rather than the base model, mainly because the cold-climate payoff on insulation is real here. Custom widths for older, non-standard openings sometimes mean a longer wait on the door itself - that's a manufacturer lead time, not something we control, and we'll flag it before you commit rather than after. If your opener is original to a 1970s install, expect to replace it alongside the door; the travel limits and force settings on units that old rarely match a new door's weight and won't be worth retrofitting.

What You Are Seeing

If your door is original to a Lakewood home built in the 1960s or 70s, the signs show up as drafts along the bottom seal, visible daylight at the panel seams, and a door that feels heavier to lift by hand every winter. Rust bloom on the torsion spring coils is common on doors that have gone through decades of this area's cold swings without insulation to buffer the metal. Owners closer to the center of the service area - around Belmar Park, Green Mountain, and Union Square - tend to call us about full replacement rather than patch repair, since the original doors in those older sections are past the point where a new cable or roller fixes the real problem. A door that shudders or reverses mid-close usually means the opener's force setting no longer matches the door's actual weight, which happens often when a heavier insulated panel gets hung on old track without reassessing the spring.

Frequently asked questions

How do I know if I need a new door or just a repair in Lakewood?

If the panels are rusted through, the door is uninsulated and original to a 1960s-70s build, or the track is bent beyond straightening, replacement usually makes more sense than repair. A door with one bad roller or a frayed cable on otherwise sound panels and track is a repair call, not an install call.

Do you install doors to fit older, non-standard openings?

Yes. A lot of garages in the service area were framed before current standard door widths were common, so we measure the actual opening rather than assuming a stock size. Custom widths sometimes mean a longer wait on the door from the manufacturer, which we'll tell you up front.

Why does my old door feel so much heavier in winter?

Cold metal is stiffer, and a torsion spring sized decades ago for a lighter, uninsulated panel loses lift capacity as it ages and as cold cycles work the coils. That combination is common on original 1970s-era doors in this climate and is usually a sign the spring needs resizing, not just lubricating.

Will a new insulated door actually help with heat loss?

In a cold, severe climate band like this one, yes - an insulated steel panel cuts direct heat transfer through the door face compared to the single-layer steel common on original builds from the 1960s and 70s. It won't fix air leaks around a worn perimeter seal on its own, so we address both when we install.

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